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A Perfect Match: Pinot Noir has found an American home in Oregon

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Josh Bergström dips the pointed end of a long, arcing glass tube through the open bung of a weathered barrel, draws out a glistening purple liquid and transfers it to a tasting glass. The color is brilliant and not entirely opaque, its transparency echoing the clarity of the classic Pinot Noir flavor profile. The flavors bristle with black cherry, hints of blackberry and plum, an earthy tone lurking in the background.

The 2011 Pinot Noir, made from the family property in Oregon's Dundee Hills, delivers the full spectrum of flavors, yet hits the palate deftly. That's what ...